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The Influence of European Winemakers on the Finger Lakes Wine Region

In recent years, the Finger Lakes has garnered acclaim as “one of the greatest Riesling regions of the world” and “America’s premier cool-climate wine region.” Some of that success has been shaped by a handful of European Winemakers who have blended the best of old-world traditions, training, and experience with new-world innovation, a willingness to experiment and to share ideas, and the flexibility to adjust to any given situation. On April 11th, Explore Steuben and Finger Lakes Countrysides are premiering on YouTube the new documentary video exploring The Influence of European Winemakers on the Finger Lakes Wine Region.

In 1829, a reverend intent on making sacramental wine planted the first vines in the Finger Lakes region in the small town of Hammondsport. Eventually, several of his parishioners were inspired to grow grapes. By the end of the 19th century, there were over 25,000 acres of vineyards around Keuka Lake. At first, the sweet native grapes were primarily sold in NYC and other markets as table grapes, but eventually the area gained a reputation for its sparkling wines. However, by the time Prohibition ended in the 1930s, only six wineries remained.

While winemaking in the Finger Lakes is still in its infancy, at just over 160 years-old, in recent years the region has garnered significant acclaim as “the prime wine region of the Eastern U.S.” and “America’s preeminent East Coast wine region.”

You could say the upward trajectory began when Charles Fournier, chief winemaker at the renowned Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in Reims, France, was brought to the Finger Lakes following Prohibition to oversee the sparkling wine production at the Urbana Wine Company (later known as Gold Seal). Fournier introduced several notable French-American hybrid grape varieties to the region and provided Ukrainian immigrant Dr. Konstantin Frank the opportunity to ignite the Vinifera Revolution, forever changing winemaking in the northeastern United States. Today, while Dr. Frank’s descendants and the winery that bears his name continue to set the standard by which all other Finger Lakes wineries are judged, a few other wineries founded by winemakers originally brought to the region to make wine for Dr. Frank’s, continue to elevate the quality of wine being produced and the experiences visitors can enjoy.

French winemaker Morten Hallgren has spent the past two decades making exceptional wines at Ravines Wine Cellars. Called a “pioneer of the Dry Riesling” for which the Finger Lakes region has been gaining acclaim. French winemaker Sébastien LeSeurre, who worked at Dr. Frank’s before starting Domaine LeSeurre winery with his wife and fellow French winemaker, Céline, on the east side of Keuka Lake, focuses on crafting terroir-driven, food friendly wines. Right next door you’ll find the 2022 New York State “Winery of the Year,” Weis Vineyards, which was founded by German winemaker Hans Peter Weis after spending a decade working for Dr. Frank’s. Weis was also recently named one of Wine Business Monthly’s “Hot Brands” for 2023. Over on Seneca Lake, another German winemaker and grower, Johannes Reinhardt, who worked at Dr. Frank’s when Hallgren was there, founded Kemmeter Winery over a decade ago his wife Imelda. German winemaker Hermann Wiemer, another vinifera pioneer, was actually the first winemaker at Bully Hill Vineyards, but eventually his desire to work with Vinifera grapes led him to start his own winery on Seneca Lake. When Hermann retired from winemaking, he left his winery and his legacy in the capable hands of Oskar Bynke and Fred Merwarth.

Read the rest of the original article on I LOVE NY.

Main Street Drivers provides customized experiences in the Finger Lakes for wine enthusiasts of all levels. If you are traveling to the area, check out the details on our affordable Finger Lakes Wine Tours.

Finger Lakes winemakers land a ‘home’ for their new property ahead of 1st release

How well are things coming together for winemakers Kelby James Russell and Julia Rose Hoyle as they build the foundation for a new Finger Lakes winery called Apollo’s Praise?

Based on the set of circumstances that occurred with an 1840s farmhouse located across the road from the Lahoma Vineyards they will source for their line of wines, the run-up couldn’t be going much better. They purchased that farmhouse today, which they plan to use for dinners and pick-up parties for members of their wine club in addition to making it available as an Airbnb.

Russell says he had seen the farmhouse for years during his stint with Red Newt Cellars, where his stellar reputation grew with the world-class Rieslings and other wines he produced before this latest venture. “But Julia, one day we were driving around and she made the comment, ‘If that ever went up for sale, my gosh, what a perfect addition to the property [that would be].’ For all we know it might have been the original farmhouse because there used to be an orchard where the vineyard is.”

Lo and behold, last August it went on the market. “We’re like, well you don’t really get to choose when opportunity strikes, even though it wasn’t necessarily the ideal timing to make another big move,” Russell says. “I guess we feel really happy we made the offer because the last time it sold was 1947. “

While the couple has no short-term plans for a tasting room, Russell says this gives them a cozy home for club members and others to visit. “It’s nice to have sort of a hearth to welcome people to,” he says.

A Finger Lakes native, Russell left home for Harvard, where he studied Orchestra Management. According to a June 2023 story on the New York Wines website, it was winemaking that drew him back in 2009, and he began his tenure as Red Newt winemaker in 2012. His accolades include outstanding reviews and a spot on Wine Enthusiast’s “40 Under 40 Tastemaker” list, and last year he was honored by his colleagues in the New York Wine and Grape Foundation with the “Phyllis Feder Unity Award.” He also played a key role as a co-chair for the “FLXcursion” International Riesling Conferences in 2019, ‘21 and ‘23, which have helped to showcase the region and its extraordinary wines.

Russell left Red Newt last spring around the same time he and Hoyle were purchasing Lahoma Vineyards — a source of grapes for several Red Newt classics such as the “Big H” Riesling and The Knoll Riesling as well as other wine producers — from grower Ken Fulkerson and setting in motion their plan to start Apollo’s Praise. The vineyard and farmhouse are both located across the lake from Red Newt Cellars, in Rock Stream, New York.

The name is inspired by a song entitled “Glorious Apollo” that Russell sang in the men’s choir, one that was familiar to members through the years. He says since his career path was meant to be Orchestra Management, “this is a way to tie everything back together.” While Russell is now focused exclusively on this winery, Hoyle will continue as the winemaker at nearby Hosmer Estate Winery while serving as her husband’s co-conspirator, as she references it on the website, with their ambitious project.

The availability of grapes from the 55 acres of vines located on Seneca Lake’s southwest shore figures to change very little, he says, even with their venture. “There’s been no shortage of demand for the fruit. We weren’t looking to upset the applecart in any way,” adding that “it’s been a very easy path to keep a little bit of what we wanted and keep supplying a lot of the longtime customers.”

If there was one setback, it was the infamous May 18, 2023, late frost, which robbed Fingers Lake vineyards of tons of potential fruit, including at Lahoma, where Russell and Hoyle lost half of their available fruit a month after purchasing the vineyard. Still, Russell told New York Wines, “We’re going to make people sit up and notice with the wines we do get to make.”

In an interview last week with PennLive, he says they have cleared the main hurdles, securing their bonded winery permit and approval from the state. They are aiming at releasing around half of their wines to members of what they call their Wine and Glee Club on May 1 and then the second set on Sept. 1. Club membership, of which there are still some openings, will include six wines from each of their two releases, which can either be shipped or picked up.

Skurnik will otherwise provide distribution to several states: New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut and probably California. “We’re not expecting to sell a ton in California,” Russell says, “but there are some wine restaurants out there, of course, that we’d really like to showcase [our products] to the wine world.”

The portfolio at this point will include nine wines, starting with some Finger Lakes classics — a dry Riesling, a Kabinett-style (made from fully ripe grapes) Riesling, a dry rosé of Cabernet Franc and a stainless-steel Cabernet Franc, with the remainder of the list, Russell says, featuring “some of the things that are unique to us”:
  • Reserve Cab Franc that’s done in a 400-gallon oak tank, “very Old World-inspired in that way”
  • Gruner Veltliner
  • Barrel-fermented Chardonnay
  • The reserve Riesling, The Knoll
  • And “a real perky one called Scheurebe. It’s widely planted in Germany, especially in the faults in the Rheinhessen, which is where I had it when I was visiting some states in 2016 and just really fell in love with the grape,” he says. “The owner at the time of Lahoma Vineyard, he had a little half-acre parcel and he asked what I’d be curious to see planted, and that just kind of stuck out to me.”

Their first commercial crop from that trial plot was harvested last year. “It’s a really fascinating combination of things in terms of how it presents,” he says. “It has a little bit of, sort of like, acidity and fruit of Riesling, but also has some of the spice notes from Gewurztraminer.” While he expects that wine will require a bit of education for consumers, he anticipates that it will become as much a cult wine as anything. “That would be the sort of goal for this wine. In a good year, [production] might be 100 cases” that will be offered as a wine club exclusive.

Read the rest of the original article on Penn Live.

Main Street Drivers provides customized experiences in the Finger Lakes for wine enthusiasts of all levels. If you are traveling to the area, check out the details on our affordable Finger Lakes Wine Tours.

18 Tips To Know Before Visiting A Winery For The First Time

Visiting a winery is a fun, social way to learn about a wine region and try wines from your favorite producers, including winery-exclusive selections only available on-site. The experience can be intimidating for first-time tasters unfamiliar with winery protocols. Some wineries are casual and laid-back, while others are exclusive and luxurious. However, remember that all wineries begin with the same foundation: a dedication to crafting something delicious by combining art, science, agriculture, and alcohol. You should feel that passion during your day of tasting. The best way to ensure the experience is pleasurable is by planning.

As a sommelier and wine writer, I have spent the past two decades visiting wineries worldwide. Taking note of my experiences led us to create this guide with everything you need to know when visiting a winery. By following these suggestions, you will be ready to swirl, sniff, and sip your way through a day of winery visits. Happy tasting.

Make a reservation

There was a time in our not-too-distant past when you could easily walk into a winery tasting room without a reservation and taste through a selection of current-release wines. This was often done inexpensively, and sometimes with the winery’s owner. Sadly, those days are gone. Though you can still find some wineries open to guests without a reservation, for the most part, advance bookings are either required or highly recommended.

Closures during the coronavirus pandemic forced many wineries to rethink their business model, introducing specialized seated tastings that cater to smaller numbers of guests. Requiring a prior reservation also helps winery staff prepare for the amount of visitors they are expecting on any given day. This practice translates to a better wine tasting session for you, as proper staffing ensures you have the best experience possible.

We suggest you research the wineries in the area you would like to visit. Review the experiences offered and find the tasting that fits your style, which may include a vineyard tour, cave tasting, or wine and food pairing. Being prepared is always best, especially if you’re bringing a larger group.

Schedule plenty of time at each winery

As you begin to plan your wine tasting itinerary, figure out how many wineries you want to visit. We recommend limiting the number to three or four visits per day so as not to feel rushed to get to the next appointment.

Most tastings will last around an hour to an hour and a half, depending upon your group size and the type of experience you book. As you plan, you will want to schedule time for lunch, or book a tasting that includes a wine and food pairing. Remember to calculate how long it will take to drive from one stop to the next.

Punctuality for your appointments is also important. A winery’s schedule can be tight, especially on weekends. Arrive at your appointments on time, and call to notify the winery if you are running late.

Designate or hire a driver

Whether you designate a driver or hire a car service, ensuring that you do not drink and drive is essential for any wine tasting tour. Luckily, driver services are readily available in most wine regions. Finding the right one is just a Google search away.

Many wine-country transportation firms also offer concierge services to help plan your itinerary and book reservations, which can be useful for anyone unfamiliar with the region’s wineries. However, if you have preferences, it is entirely appropriate to ask the concierge to include those wineries, or make bookings yourself.

If you choose to designate a driver from your group who will attend tasting experiences, like visiting a vineyard or taking a wine-cave tour, make sure to ask if there are charges for guests who won’t be tasting. It also may be tempting to use a ride-hailing service like Uber or Lyft. We don’t recommend relying on this service. Their availability is limited, which is problematic when you’re trying to get to your next appointment.

Be prepared for the costs

Similarly to how tasting at a winery without an appointment is largely gone, tastings that are free or with a nominal fee are rare. Today, most wineries charge a fee to taste with them, and those fees are soaring, especially in popular wine regions like Napa and Sonoma. According to the SVB 2023 Direct-to-Consumer Wine Survey, the average cost of a standard wine tasting in Napa Valley is now $81, while in 2012 Napa’s average tasting fee was $22. Fees in wine regions like Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, and Willamette Valley can also be high.

Preparing for the cost will ensure that you enjoy the winery experience thoroughly. Booking your appointments beforehand will allow you to familiarize yourself with the wine prices and tasting fees. Some wineries may waive the fee for the tasting if you buy a few bottles, but this practice is less common today than in years past. And don’t be afraid to share a tasting with your partner, both to save money and pace yourself.

Dress comfortably

Comfort is vital to enjoying a winery visit. Leave your favorite evening stilettos at home. There is no place for high heels in wine country. Sure, you want to look stylish, but this is not a formal night out. Instead, opt for chic wine-country-casual clothing. We recommend comfortable shoes, like flats, boots, or sandals, lending ease when walking on winery tours. If you plan on doing a vineyard tour, closed-toe shoes are best.

Loose, comfortable clothing — like sundresses for women, and shorts or khakis with a collared shirt for men — are appropriate for daytime tastings. A cross-body bag will hold all of your daily essentials. And remember to bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen for outdoor winery tours. Bring along a jacket as well for indoor cave tastings, as wine cellars are chilly. Lastly, we recommend wearing darker colors, in case accidental spills occur.

Don’t wear fragrances or perfumed lotion

As you dress for your day of wine tasting, skip the spritz of perfume or cologne, as fragrances interfere with the sensory experience of a wine tasting. One of the most significant components of enjoying a glass of wine is the aroma and the bouquet. The subtle nuances found in these wine components offer information about what is in the glass.

The aroma can help you identify the different types of grapes used and the vineyard terroir. At the same time, the bouquet lends details on the winemaking techniques and the aging process, like the type of oak used to barrel-age the wine and the fermentation practices employed. Wearing a fragrance can mask these characteristics. Strong fragrances will also compromise the tasting experience of other winery guests, reflecting poor wine tasting etiquette.

Understand the winery’s policy regarding kids

Wineries are businesses that aim to sell you wine. Their goal to achieve this has led many wineries to create family-friendly experiences, including play areas for kids, tasting opportunities that include picnic areas, and vineyard tours. While many wineries are kid-friendly, some are not. Make sure you understand the winery’s policy before arriving with your children.

Bringing a child to a winery can be tricky, as not everyone attending a tasting will want to be around kids. If your children accompany you to a winery, keep a close eye on them. We suggest bringing along games or books to keep them entertained, and have them keep their voices down to ensure they don’t interrupt other guests.

And remember, guests enjoy alcoholic beverages at a winery. Though the atmosphere is different from a bar, it is still a place serving alcohol. Keep this in mind if you decide to bring children along.

Eat something light and pace yourself

A day of wine tasting is a delightful, educational, social occasion. It is also a day of drinking. Even if you spit, you will likely ingest some wine. We suggest that you don’t go wine tasting on an empty stomach. Prepare by eating something light beforehand. However, avoid heavily flavored or spicy foods before tasting, as they can remain on your palate, like garlic, peppers, or coffee. Avoid smoking before tasting, as the tobacco will linger on your palate and in your clothes.

Throughout your day, it is also important to pace yourself. A day of wine tasting is a marathon, not a sprint. You don’t want to overdo it by getting buzzed at your first stop. Sip slowly, taking the time to enjoy the experience and evaluate the wines. And drink lots of water to stay hydrated.

Taste from light to heavy

A typical wine tasting will include a set number of wines laid out in order of how the winery would like for you to taste them. However, some establishments will offer the ability to customize the tasting with your preferred selections. With either option, it is best to taste starting from the lower-alcohol, lightest-bodied offerings to the heaviest, fullest-bodied wines.

The alcohol in the wine contributes to the weight. If you were to begin the tasting with a high-alcohol, full-bodied red wine, it would overwhelm your palate, causing you to miss the nuances found in lighter, lower-alcohol wines. Start the tasting with white wines before moving into robust reds. If you only taste white wines, begin with crisp, refreshing selections like a riesling before moving to rich, well-rounded chardonnay. For red-wine tasters, start with a high-acid, medium-bodied red like barbera or pinot noir before trying a bold, high-alcohol zinfandel.

Know the steps of tasting

With your wines laid out in a proper order, you are ready to begin your tasting. However, you may be wondering what to do. There are several steps to wine tasting, each of which will engage your senses. The first step is to observe the color and appearance of the wine by holding the glass by the stem up to the light, or against a piece of white paper. For a white wine, is it light yellow or more golden? For a red, is it the color of rubies or more inky and black? Is the wine cloudy or clear?

The second step is to smell the wine, keeping your mouth closed and breathing in the aromas deeply. What type of fruits or spices can you smell? Then, swirl the wine carefully in the glass and smell the wine again. Did any new aromas emerge? These steps are the right way to smell wine at a tasting, priming the palate for the flavors it can expect to find in the glass.

Next, sip the wine and savor its flavors. Evaluate what you like or dislike about the wine. It is also wholly appropriate to spit out the wine at a wine tasting to ensure you don’t become inebriated. Your tasting attendant will provide a vessel to use for this.

What to look for in a glass of wine

First and foremost, the only thing that matters when tasting a wine is if you like it. There are no right or wrong answers, as much of the experience is sensorial. Finding a wine that you find favorable and would like to know more about is most important.

Opening your palate and mind to exploring the variations within a grape variety will make your time more fun. Try to identify characteristics in the wine. Identifying flavors is not meant to be stressful, only to enhance your experience.

For example, once you try a wine, observe if it is dry or sweet. Does it taste tangy, like a sour lemon, or fruity, like an apple or pear? Does the wine taste spicy, smoky, or earthy? Is it filled with flavors of toast, chocolate, or vanilla? Does the wine feel heavy or high in alcohol? Which of these characteristics appeals to you? Answering these questions will help ascertain the style of wines you prefer.

Cleanse your palate

During your wine tasting, the attendant will likely share information about each of the wines, including various winemaking techniques, aromas, and flavors found within the wine. Give yourself the best chance at identifying these characteristics by making sure to always cleanse your palate between sips of each different wine.

The palate cleanser should be clean and refreshing, leaving no aftertaste so as to allow complete revelation of the next wine’s full flavor. Take a sip of room-temperature water, or eat a bite of cheese or a cracker between each selection. Water neutralizes the palate, cheese will help absorb tannins, and starchy bread and crackers will balance the palate by absorbing the previous wine’s flavors. By doing this, you can identify and enjoy each wine’s subtle characteristics.

Try something new

A typical wine flight, or set of wine pours measuring 2 or 3 ounces each, will be offered at each winery you visit. This flight often includes the winery’s current releases, library vintage selections, or other unique offerings. Each of these selections may consist of grape varieties that are new to you, or outside of the typical types of wines you drink.

Though you may be the type of person who refuses to drink a glass of chardonnay or only drinks pinot noir, a wine tasting is an opportunity to branch away from what you usually drink to taste something you otherwise wouldn’t. There is no rule saying you have to finish each of the wines poured for you. Go into the experience with an open mind, giving each selection a try. You may be pleasantly surprised.

Read the rest of these great tips in the original article on Tasting Table.

Main Street Drivers also provides customized tours (and that important “hire a driver” tip!) for enthusiasts of all levels in many wine regions throughout the country, including tours of our featured location this month for Walla Walla Wineries.